Most famous as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, Verona is a far less famous tourist destination than its more popular neighbour, Venice, but this doesn't mean that Veneto's second city has little to offer tourists. This beautiful UNESCO World Heritage listed city has wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, with far fewer invading tourist hordes to contend with. Plus, it's is far more than just the setting for star crossed lovers, no matter how renowned.

In 2007 Verona saw a massive 43.5m Euros spent on a huge restoration programme, however, self promotion is not high on the Veronese agenda which still has (rather unfairly) a somewhat staid reputation. As a consequence the city has yet to put on the main tourist trail which means that the best bars and restaurants have yet to be discovered by outsiders and offer an authentic Italian experience.

The city’s real and multi-layered history is as ancient as it is interesting spanning over 2,500 years and is varied and apparent everywhere you turn. Breathtaking basilicas, landscaped gardens and some of Northern Italy's finest renaissance art and architecture - on a par with Florence, Siena and Pisa - remain secret within her fortified medieval walls.

Verona’s centre is an exquisite mosaic of centuries old architecture. Medieval houses are graced with Venetian gothic windows, decorative friezes and shady eaves and private courtyards can be glimpsed through the imposing portals of renaissance palaces.

The pulse of civic is the grateful Piazza Erbe where you can partake in Veronian favourite past-times of enjoying a cappuccino or a glass of Valpolicella at one of the inviting café terraces and soaking up the living history all around you.

Verona Opera
A summertime visit to Verona would not be complete without a night at the opera hosted in the magnificent Arena di Verona. The city's ancient Roman amphitheatre regularly seats 15,000 people for each performance and has remained remarkably intact over the last 2,000 years. The majestic stone tiers make a near perfect acoustic arena and it can possibly claim to be the most evocative stadium at which to watch an opera performance by the world's greatest performers. This ancient stadium really does come into its own when hosting these glittering, crowd filled spectacles - a distinct improvement on the bloody gladiatorial dramas of the ancient era!

The 86th Opera Festival will take place from 20 June-31 August 2008. The programme comprises five operas, with a total of 49 performances, involving all the artistic groups of the Arena di Verona: the Orchestra, Chorus, Corps de Ballet and technical support.

For a pre opera bite, take a table at the near by Corsini, a renowned wine bar where the specialities of boiled meats and vegetables gratins are complimented by serious wines. Gourmet gift-hunters can also stock up on local olive oils, fine chocrolates and dried pastas which are specialities of the region.

Gay travel company Adam and Steve Travel regularly offers Verona opera tours which are a fun way to experience the arena opera and explore the region.

High Fashion
Verona also offers ample opportunities for serious shoppers to indulge themselves. Aside from the A-list designers around Corso Borsari, chic Italians also visit Tailors and Ties, a trio of shops for male and female fashions specializing in Neapolitan tailoring.

From here it's a short walk to Palazzo Giusti, still in the original ownership of the noble Bevilaqua family. Its ochre façade festooned with a classical frieze is a testimony to gracious renaissance living. The house is closed but the landscaped gardens are open for visits and makes a beautiful setting for a relaxing stroll.

The city is also home to many beautiful churches including the Romanesque San Zeno Basilica which, like many other Veronese churches, is built with alternating layers of white stone and bricks. The pink and white stripped façade adorned with a magnificent rose window conceals a cavernous frescoed interior dating from 12th and 14th centuries which literally cover the entire interior of the church. Most impressive is the luminous altarpiece painted by Mantegna and the biblical reliefs on the bronze panelled doors by the young Veronese jeweller Michele de Silvestri – see his own silver shop in Via Rosa.

A more contemporary approach is the Cestelvecchio , one of Veneto’s finest public art galleries, the castle’s severe Romanesque frame has been modernised by Carlo Scarpa, a place to see the Madonna of the umbrella (in room 24) a sweet example of the northern realism which influenced the Veronese’s masters.

Such a feast of culture may leave you in need of nourishment, so pause for an aperitif at Osteria Del Bugiardo on Corso Porto Borsari. It’s a good moment to reflect on the pleasures of a city that has embrace modernity while refusing to sell out its historic soul.

Verona Gay Life
The strength of the old fashioned family unit, as well as Catholicism and political conservatism, mean that Verona is never likely to become a strong hold of gay society in Italy. However, a lively and active association, Circolo Pink, and Adam and Steve Travel takes groups there and there is always something happening, be it social events or political activism. There are very few exclusively gay locations in the city itself, but there is a limited gay scene which is worth exploring.

If you don't have a car and you want to spend some time in a gay place there is gay bar in central Verona called Lucla (via Bentegodi, 4/a - 300m from the arena). This bar is a popular meeting place and as one would expect in Italy is open every day until 2am. On Friday and Saturday night it can be very crowded, especially in summertime, and Sunday night can also be a fun time to visit.

There is another centrally located bar where you might find a gay friendly environment. The name of this place is Antimo Café. The atmosphere at the Antimo is totally different from Lucla. Antimo is not exactly a gay place and you can’t expect the same lively atmosphere of Lucla but the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming none the less.

The only gay club of Verona is not far from the centre and is called Romeo’s. Open for dancing and socialising on Fridays and Saturdays with special nights every now and then, including a monthly bears night and cruising parties on Sunday afternoons. Romeo’s is in via Giolfino and if you don’t have a car you should probably take a taxi to reach this place even though it is not impossible to walk to the club from the city centre.

Romeo’s is part of the Arcigay association and you will have to subscribe to this association in order to enter (you will therefore need to bring your ID and 15 euros for the subscription which will last for one year). There is also a gay sauna next to this club called The City Sauna, via Giolfino 12, T 045 520009. It's Verona’s only sauna and one of its few established gay locations east of the city centre.

Lake Garda
Many gay people in Verona prefer to drive to Lake Garda Desenzano for their gay clubbing, which is 30km from Verona, and head for the Art club which caters for a mixed crowd.

The area around Lake Garda is also well worth visiting for its beautiful scenery and quiet location. This is Italy’s largest lake and is surrounded by the majestic Dolomite Mountains and has become a haven for outdoor enthusiasts with a huge variety of activities taking place on or around the lake. For those looking for some more relaxing the area is also home to some of Italy’s best vineyards which compliment the excellent locale cuisine perfectly.

Lake Garda also offers two well known gay beaches. In Punta San Viglio, to the north of the Baia delle Sirene, there is a stretch of beach which is unofficially nudist (la spiaggia naturista) and has also become one of Lake Garda’s main gay locations and there's also another nudist beach at the Camping del Vo’ just outside Desenzano.


Gay opera tours to Verona with a Dolomites and gay beach excursions can be booked through Adam and Steve Travel staying at Lake Ledro with a dedicated gay and lesbian hotel.  Five nights half board in June costs £449 per person. Seven nights in August costs £549 and includes transport to Verona operas and an optional excursion to the Dolomites.

Find out all the latest gay travel information by ordering the brand new 2008 Spartacus International Gay Guide. Get it online and save some money to put towards the other Bruno Gmunder guides - Hotel and Restaurant Guide and Sauna Guide.